I have been to both
Ottolenghi restaurants in Islington and NOPI in Soho. I really wanted to love them as much as I
love the cookbooks but, sadly, that was not to be. My view on both
restaurants was pretty similar so I'll review them in the same post.
Both restaurants had
much more limited vegetarian options than you would expect from
Ottolenghi's Guardian column and cookbooks – it's not so much that
there weren't quite a number of options as that they were almost
uniformly “lighter” options, more accents to the meat dishes in
the mezze than substantial in and of themselves and, often, with
ingredients repeated throughout the vegetarian options so it was hard
to get dishes that were genuinely different from one another.
Essentially, I got the
impression that no-one had actually looked at the whole of the menu
from a vegetarian's perspective – each individual dish was nice but
it was hard to put together a complete meal from the vegetarian
dishes on the table without a) repeating ingredients a lot and b)
eating a lot of vegetables and not much protein/carbohydrate. I
don't want to sound like a barbarian but, really, I do expect to be
full after spending £30+ on food in a restaurant. Even by the
standards of nice London restaurants, I thought both were overpriced
– it's not that the food wasn't good but it just wasn't quite
priced right for me, for the prices they charge, I expect (literally)
more.
I had one Islington
restaurant specific gripe, too: we'd booked in advance but were sat
on the long communal table without being warned of this on the phone
– if we had been told, we would have changed the booking for a time
when we could get a table to ourselves – the staff's attitude
seemed to be very much “if you're in the know, then you'll get your
own table, otherwise, we won't tell you”. I don't like that
attitude much.
Overall, I'd rather
stay at home with my cookbooks. Where I can get a table to myself.
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