Recently, Amazon sent
me an e-mail inviting me to trade in my copy of Plenty. I
instinctively wanted to go and clutch it. It is MINE all MINE and
they can't take it away from me.
Anyway. This reminded
me that I have been meaning to review it for a while though, perhaps,
I hardly need to as the fact that I named this blog after one of his
chapter titles probably tells you that I like it very much.
It's one of my
favourite cookbooks. I particularly love the paella recipe, the ratatouille, and the stuffed onions. When he writes in The Guardian,
commenters often make fun of his very lengthy lists of ingredients
and it's true that virtually every recipe has more than 15
ingredients in it and is quite fiddly. But that's how you produce
complex intricate flavours. It just isn't possible to do that
quickly and with two ingredients, people!
I also make fun of his
instructions sometimes – I find it particularly entertaining when
he tells you things like “fry this for 6 minutes then add this and
fry it for a further minute” but, if I'm honest, the recipes kind
of do come out better when I follow those instructions than when I
wing it. (Except for the stuffed onions which I've made often enough
that I don't even bother looking at the recipe.)
What I really like
about Ottolenghi's cookbooks is the precision, in fact, though I do
mock it sometimes. You can really tell that he runs his own
restaurants: the instructions are incredibly detailed and clear.
There's none of this “oh, between 325 and 450ml of buttermilk”type stuff, Ottolenghi will tell you exact quantities and timings and
will detail all of the spicing, so that you aren't left with “oh,
season to taste” or similar rubbish.
The cookbooks are, I think, for the experienced cook but, if you are an experienced cook, especially if you are vegetarian or like to cook complicated vegetarian food, they are absolutely fantastic. If you want a cookbook that will produce nice food but with simpler recipes and shorter ingredient lists, I'd suggest High Fearnley-Whittingstall'sVeg instead.
I will review the
Ottolenghi restaurants in a separate post.
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